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LOLA T-70 BY MONOGRAM

Last updated on 14 years ago
Voodoo
I thought it would be a good idea to put some things down that I noticed obout the car.

#1 Full disassemble
greatlakesscc.com/images/body%20parts%201.jpg
greatlakesscc.com/images/body%20parts%202.jpg
Parts that were removed are, hood, nose, rear, windscreen, two gas caps, two tail lights, dash, motor, rear motor, interior.

#2 Next the body and body parts were put into brake fluid
greatlakesscc.com/images/soaking.jpg
after a 20 minute soak the numbers and stripes were melting.
greatlakesscc.com/images/soak%20and%20melt.jpg
With a quick wipe down its ready for paint, or you could soak more to get it down to the bare plastic, I am not sure that this is needed. After about 20 more minutes I was able to wipe off the headlights and the blue is starting to come off on the rag.
greatlakesscc.com/images/20%20min%20soak.jpg

#3 True the rear wheels, I know there has been alot of talk about the benefits of using a lathe to do this job, and yes a lathe will do a great job, however there is much more when you do it on a lathe. First you have to remove the wheels, this in itself can be a problem and in some cases you destroy a wheel in the process, next you need to chuck in a donor axle that is striaght, this requires a dial indicator (about 60.00 bucks) Now you install the wheel onto the donor axle and cut it down with the lathe, now reinstall it on the car or stock axle only to find out that that axle is not true or the rim itself was never true to the donor axle even though the axle was true, or you just tweeked the rim by removing it and reinstalling it.:o:@:D I myself have a Small micro lathe, a 1,600lbs industrial Lathe, and a mill, with all the indicators and whobie dobie's to go with it, and I do not own a car that the wheels were lathe trued, all wheels done were for other racers. So with that said this is how I true wheels, you need a power source, file, and a dial caliper. YOU MUST REMOVE ANY AXLE SLOP BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO TRUE THE WHEELS You simply run the car with the power source and use the file to true the rims, then after one rim is complete and you are happy with the fit of the tires you use the dial calipers and file the the other side down to match, I have used a xacto knife in the past and will work in a pinch but it can tend to dig and hop and make the rim worse. If the rim is damaged in the truing you can save the rim with bondo, a light coat and retrue the rim, however in the case the rim has no solid rib such as a monogram rims by using bondo you create a solid rib and this is a mod to the wheel and would be illegal for series racing but not for regular saturday nite racing. If you are unsure of how to do this ask a friend to help, remember my door is always open.
greatlakesscc.com/images/trued%20rim%20.588.jpg
greatlakesscc.com/images/trued%20rim%20with%20ppr.jpg
greatlakesscc.com/images/side%20view%20of%20rims.jpg
Notice the tire fits the rim with no gap these wheels were trued to .588"
greatlakesscc.com/images/axel%20rear%20view%20with%20pprs.jpg
Notice the tires are nice and flat to the table

#4 Chassis, and how to get it flat.
greatlakesscc.com/images/chassis%20with%20flange%20removed.jpg
Notice that the mounting flange has been removed by sanding it down. After this has been done you can now place the chassis on a tech block or flat surface to see how much work is needed, There are a few ways to fix a tweeked chassis, I use a hair dryer and heat the chassis and simply bend it so it sits flat. After speaking to Jim he put his chassis on the fridge held in place with magnets and then heated it with the blow dryer And Neal placed his on a piece of flat metal, held it in place with magnets and put it in the oven on low for about ten minutes, both let them cool and they say it was the best.

#5 Axle slop, the monogram cars like the scalextric both have some axle slop in the bushings, this is because the bushing is drilled 3/32. The axle is knurled at the end and in the process of knurling you wind up increasing the O.D of the axle, so a smaller axle is used so it is knurled to the diameter of 3/32, it fits nice through the bushing but is sloppy on the smooth part of the axle. So now the fix, in my opinion I have only found one good fix for this, and that is to use super glue, yes I want you to use super glue and here is how you do it. But before I go into that I would like to address what I know you will hear, "You are going to ruin your axle" or " I have tried this and ruined three axles" if you follow these steps you wont ruin anything.

Step 1 with the axle in the chassis check it to be free moving, not bent, and all looks good.

Step 2 Lightly oil the bushing as you normaly would

greatlakesscc.com/images/axel%20with%20ppr%20and%20text.JPG

Step 3 using medium viscosity (ONLY MED VISCOSITY) put a drop of glue as shown in the picture, Holding the chassis on it side put one drop of glue on the top of the bushing and the side of the axle, wiggle and spin the axle around to get the glue down in the bushing, then spray some zip kicker to set the glue, give it a few seconds to set then spin the axle free from the glue. Sometimes the glue wont stick to the bushing and you need to repeat the steps but this time dont add more oil. Remember using small amounts of glue is better and is very hard to mess things up.

Step 4 Now you have glued your bushings and have no slop, you may notice it is a bit tight and will not spin free, this is normal and you now have to break in the bushings. To break in the bushings you need to remove the axle from the chassis, now pick a side to start with and slide the bushing over to the other side, now with some emory paper or an emory board lightly file the axle where the bushing will ride, then I use a dremel tool with a wire wheel to polish the axle. Slide the bushing back over and check to see how it feels, keep repeating the process till you get things to spin easy and free, now reinstall the axle into the chassis, oil and check the spin, repeat if needed, when you are done there should be no slop and it shoud free spin like it was on bearings. Remember when you glue use just a bit, when you file only file a bit, dont try to do it all in one try, after you have done this a few times the whole process takes about 20 minutes. This is one of those things that when the car is viewed you can see how smooth the axle spins but the effects on the car are unmatched, the car will be quicker have more top end and with the slop gone and trued wheels will enter and exit turns like nothing else, now you can just smile as they call you a cheater.

#6 Chassis, some may have noticed that the body posts fit into a cup on the chassis, this will effect how the chassis will rock and how free it will be.
greatlakesscc.com/images/chassis%20with%20text.JPG
As you can see in the photo where the cups are, you can enlarge these buy using a exacto knife or dremel tool, be careful not to make them deeper only wider, if they are made deeper the body will be lowered and that is not allowed. Some of the cup/shoulder has to be present you may not remove all of it.

More to follow

Thanks Voodoo (Frank)
Thanks Voodoo (Frank)

Second place is just the first place loser.
Voodoo
Added more info above
Thanks Voodoo (Frank)

Second place is just the first place loser.
Voodoo
Just added step #6 for a chassis mod
Thanks Voodoo (Frank)

Second place is just the first place loser.
Voodoo
greatlakesscc.com/images/lola%20top.jpg
greatlakesscc.com/images/lola%20rear.jpg
greatlakesscc.com/images/lola%20side.jpg
And the completed car, Lola T70 1966 N°8 - C. Gordon I hope its dry by race night:D

Thanks Voodoo (Frank)
Thanks Voodoo (Frank)

Second place is just the first place loser.
Voodoo
No I did not, the picture I was working from the dash was white. it has plenty of other stuff wrong but its a race car and time for me is short lately, however thats for the thumbs up.

Thanks Voodoo (Frank)
Thanks Voodoo (Frank)

Second place is just the first place loser.
R
Denatured Alcohol stripped the white off and left the blue for me.:)
Larry Kelley
Voodoo
Cool thanks for the tip
Thanks Voodoo (Frank)

Second place is just the first place loser.
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